Thessaloniki, the metropolis often called Greece's second capital, stretches along the shore of the Thermaic Gulf, where 2,300 years of history come to life on every street corner. The city was founded by Alexander the Great's half-brother Cassander in 315 BC, and since then Byzantine, Ottoman and modern Greek layers have accumulated on top of one another. The cafés lining the seafront promenade, the vibrant market life and the stunning sunsets make Thessaloniki one of the most liveable Mediterranean cities. Here are the 10 best sights well worth discovering in the city.
1. White Tower (Lefkós Pírgos)
Thessaloniki's most iconic emblem rises on the seafront promenade and appears on almost every postcard of the city. The 15th-century Ottoman fortification originally served as a prison, and today a museum operates in it, presenting the city's history in interactive exhibitions. From the top of the tower a 360-degree panorama opens over the Thermaic Gulf and Mount Olympus. Admission is affordable, and going round the exhibition takes about 45–60 minutes.
2. Ladadika district
The former warehouse district next to the harbour has become Thessaloniki's most vibrant entertainment district, characterised by neoclassical buildings and cobblestones. In the car-free streets, tavernas, mezedopoleia (eateries serving small dishes) and cocktail bars follow one another, filling with locals and tourists alike in the evening. The district is charming by day too, but its true magic unfolds after dark, when the building facades are illuminated. It's worth having dinner here on an evening walk, fresh sea fish or a classic Greek meze selection.
3. Rotunda of Galerius
This 4th-century Roman circular building was originally built as the mausoleum of Emperor Galerius, later converted into a Christian church and then an Ottoman mosque. Beneath the huge dome, the surviving Byzantine mosaics are stunning examples of early Christian art, and are part of the UNESCO World Heritage. The building's size and acoustics are impressive in themselves, the dome is 24 metres in diameter, and the interior is almost cathedral-like. Next to the Rotunda, the remains of the Arch of Galerius can also be seen.
4. Aristotelous Square
Thessaloniki's central square runs from Egnatia Street to the seafront and is the focal point of the city's social life. The monumental buildings of the semicircular square were designed by the French architect Ernest Hébrard during the reconstruction after the great fire of 1917. On the square, flower sellers, buskers and café terraces create a Mediterranean atmosphere, and locals gather here on festive occasions too. There's a belief that whoever touches the toe of the statue of Aristotle will have their wish granted.
5. Ano Poli (Upper Town)
The upper part of the city, Ano Poli, escaped the fire of 1917, so the Ottoman-era wooden houses and narrow alleys survived in their original state. The Upper Town lies in the embrace of the Byzantine city walls and offers a stunning view of the sea and the modern city. The district's atmosphere is made unforgettable by cats, flowery courtyards and hidden little tavernas. From the Trigonion bastion the sunset is especially beautiful, and locals too love to come here to admire it.
6. Thessaloniki seafront promenade (Nea Paralia)
Renovated in 2013, the 5-kilometre-long seafront promenade is the city's pride, decorated with themed gardens and modern sculptures. The promenade runs from the White Tower to the concert hall, and is used by pedestrians, runners and cyclists at all hours of the day. The Umbrellas sculpture (a work by Zongolopoulos) is the promenade's most photographed spot, especially at sunset. On Sunday afternoons hundreds of local families and friends flood the promenade, a true Thessaloniki tradition.
7. Modiano Market
At the market built in 1922 and named after the Sephardic merchant Eli Modiano, Thessaloniki's gastronomic diversity is laid before the visitor. In the recently renovated hall, fresh fish, spices, olives and local cheese specialities line up, alongside modern street-food stalls and cafés. Together with the Kapani market, the streets around the market form a huge, bustling shopping zone. Try the pastourma (a spiced dried beef) and the local halva, these are Thessaloniki's iconic flavours.
8. Church of Saint Demetrios (UNESCO)
Dedicated to Thessaloniki's patron, Saint Demetrios, this 7th-century basilica is part of the UNESCO World Heritage and the city's most important place of pilgrimage. The original church, built in the fifth century, was destroyed by fire, but the rebuilt basilica's early Byzantine mosaics survived and are outstanding works of Christian art. In the church's crypt, which stands on the remains of the former Roman baths, the site of Saint Demetrios's martyrdom is venerated. The basilica is free to visit, but it's worth taking the times of Mass into account.
9. Archaeological Museum
Thessaloniki's Archaeological Museum holds Macedonia's richest collection of finds, from the prehistoric era to the Roman period. The museum's pride is its collection of Macedonian treasures similar to the Vergina gold finds, as well as Hellenistic gold jewellery and glass objects. The chronologically arranged exhibition leads you through the history of ancient Macedonia from Philip the Great to the Roman conquest. The visit takes 1.5–2 hours, and the garden in front of the building is a pleasant resting place too.
10. Byzantine walls of the Upper Town
Built between the 4th and 15th centuries, the city walls run along the edge of the Upper Town and are among Thessaloniki's most spectacular historical monuments. Walking along the walls, you can see the Trigonion Tower, the Heptapyrgion Fortress (Jedikule) and numerous smaller bastions, while the view over the city and the sea is stunning. Certain sections of the Byzantine walls are excellently preserved, and you can walk along the restored parts. From the grounds of the Eptapyrgio Fortress, which operated as a prison right up to 1989, you can see from the highest point all the way to the Halkidiki Peninsula on a clear day.
Practical tips
- Transport: Thessaloniki's centre is walkable; to the Upper Town it's worth going up by bus 50 and then walking down. It's worth buying local bus tickets in advance at the kiosks, as they're pricier from the driver. Taxis are affordable too, expect fares of €5–8 within the city.
- eSIM and internet: In Greece, EU roaming applies, but if you have a non-EU subscription, you can buy a good-value Greek data plan from the eSIM Surfer app. Free wifi is generally available in the seafront cafés and the museums.
- Shopping and gifts: Tsimiski Street is the main shopping street with brand-name shops, while around the Kapani market you can buy local products, spices, olive oil, loukoumi sweets, at good prices. Prices are fixed; haggling isn't customary.
- Gastronomy: In Thessaloniki it's worth dining early in the evening (around 20:00), as the popular tavernas fill up quickly. Have bougatsa for breakfast, gyros for lunch and fresh fish for dinner, that way you get a local flavour at every meal.
- Timing: The city centre and the seafront can be covered in one day, and the Upper Town and the museums require a second day. If you also want to explore the surroundings, Vergina, Mount Olympus, Halkidiki, plan for at least 4–5 days for the region.